Charlton & Co. (Est. 1909 – 1943) When it was established in 1909 at 298 Fifth Avenue by native New Yorker John W. Charlton, (1867 – 1922), this American jewelry house was known as J.W. Charlton. Charlton had been involved with several firms before he opened this location.
The firm’s name was changed to Charlton & Co. when Robert S. Chapin partnered with Charlton and the company moved to the 600 Block of Fifth Avenue. Upon Charlton’s retirement in 1919, newly added partners, James Todd and Grant A. Peacock, Sr. took over the company’s operation and carried on Charlton’s tradition of offering fine jewelry.
In the late 1920s, the partners opened branches in Palm Beach, Florida, and in Paris on the fashionable rue de la Paix. During the 1930s though, they closed these branch stores.
In 1943, Peacock acquired ownership of Charlton & Co., renaming the firm Grant A. Peacock. When the senior Peacock retired, his son, Grant A. Peacock, Jr. (1924 -2010) took over the fine jewelry business and maintained old-world attention to individual customers’ needs while updating the boutique that was still rooted in turn-of-the-century manners.
When the younger Peacock retired in 1989, his granddaughter Kathleen took over the business. The Grant A. Peacock firm is currently located at 450 Park Avenue.
Known by some as, “America’s Cartier,” Charlton & Co., produced exquisite jewelry. A typical example is a ruby-set bracelet designed in the 1930’s. It incorporates a rare beautiful diamond that complements spring-like foliage.
The openwork band of foliate design is set throughout with circular and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 9.50 carats in total and is decorated with carved rubies and emeralds, and signed Charlton.
Another example of the firm’s creations is a “Samurai” dress watch, made circa 1930, in the Japanese style. Very thin, featuring an 18K yellow gold samurai figure, it is made from black and green enamel finely trimmed with white enamel and yellow gold. The dial features heavy gold “bamboo” style Roman numerals. It is simultaneously elegant and exotic.
Charlton was known for creating some of the most important jewels of the Art Deco period with an impressive client list that rivaled some of biggest jewelry firms.
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