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Roberto Coin (1945? – ) Roberto Coin was already a successful jewelry designer with over twenty years of experience when he added his unique signature element to his creations. He was born in the Italian city of Vicenza, known as, the “City of Gold” and its history and heritage inspired many of his designs and complemented his creative artistry.
After losing his parents at an early age, Coin was sent to boarding school in Switzerland. It was there that he learned about the hotel trade and became, at age twenty-four, one of the youngest hoteliers in Europe. He worked in Guernsey in the Channel Islands plus several European countries before selling his hotel and using the proceeds to change careers at age 32.
In 1977, Roberto Coin established the company that would bear his name. At first, the company intended to produce items on behalf of some of the most prestigious brands of international fine jewelry; however, another idea superseded that plan.
The Roberto Coin brand was officially launched in 1996. It achieved success and recognition in a relatively short time. By 2000, only four years after the brand went public, experts placed it seventh among the best-known jewelry brands in the United States. Two years later, the brand ranked third internationally and first among Italian jewelers.
When Coin launched the brand in 1996, he set a small ruby in a hidden spot of each of the pieces he sold. The Appassionata Collection was the first to have the signature ruby.
According to Egyptian mythology, wearing a ruby close to the skin brings long life, good health and happiness. Inspired by this legend Roberto Coin placed a ruby in each piece as a special gift shared with those who purchased or received one of the company’s unique designs. This hidden ruby is an exclusive signature in all Roberto Coin collections.
Coin has said, “…the ruby is a romantic way to wish the best to all the people wearing my pieces.”
The inspiration to add the ruby, known as “The King of Gemstones” came from Coin’s readings about ancient pharaohs who considered the ruby to be a magic stone. Only synthetic rubies are used and the brand guarantees that none of the stones come from a region in turmoil. It should be noted that the same physical and aesthetic characteristics apply to both natural and synthetic rubies.
The mark of ‘Vicenza, Italy’ along with the signature ruby are two ways to determine authentic Roberto Coin jewelry. All of his pieces are classically designed and precision-crafted in 18kt gold with and without gemstones. From delicate to bold, each piece of Roberto Coin jewelry is unique and handcrafted.
The brand was the first to employ three color gold that quickly became an internationally fashionable jewelry trend. Roberto Coin designs are known for their innovative craftsmanship and use of color whether rose, yellow or white gold or colored gemstones. The Roberto Coin creative team uses age-old jewelry design techniques complemented with modern innovations to create necklaces, earrings and more.
In Roberto Coin’s first collections gold was the main feature and pieces had an intricate weave of precious threads that resulted in elaborate and fascinating fabric combinations. Throughout the years, gems and diamonds were added to the gold helping to ensure the brand’s firm place in the world of fine jewelry.
Coin’s instinct for innovation pushed him to create over 600 new models a year to satisfy the demands of the international markets. Today, Roberto Coin’s collections can be found in over 1000 shops, scattered through more than 60 countries worldwide. Many creations are chosen each year by fashion celebrities and movie stars who are seen wearing them on popular and prestigious red carpets.
The brand is noted for designs inspired by nature and the company’s creations also celebrate Coin’s respect for and fascination with the animal world. It is, however, his birthplace that most inspires the man and the designer. He’s said: “Italians were the original architects, artists [and] painters; we designed jewels for the monarchs.”
Roberto Coin creations are filled with light, shape and color. Materials include 18kt yellow gold, white and rose gold, diamonds, precious stones. Gold, steel, wood, and other elements are used in the brand’s necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches and pendants.
Roberto does the sketches himself and gives the work to his designers who work on computers to build-his concepts in preparation for the model-makers. He is intimately involved in all aspects of his business from design and manufacturing to marketing and finance.
The firm’s notable collections include Appassionata – Italian for “passion” – that features interlocking ribbed gold links in a basket-weave design. The earrings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets, bangles and rings display a flexible, fabric-like movement.
The Animale collection employs representations of animals and insects in colorful, whimsical, and charming ways that convey sparkle, beauty and glamour. The 18kt gold bangles, rings and earrings feature, among other things, diamonds, fish, horses, scorpions and octopi.
Some other collections of note include Bold Gold, also known as the “Love Chain.” In this collection, the earrings, necklaces and bracelets are comprised of what appears to be uninterrupted links of contrasting satin and high-polished precious metal.
The Cento collection – Italian for 100 – is an innovative diamond cut that Roberto Coin patented and features 100 facets (versus the “usual” 57) to deliver longer light refraction. The result is a kaleidoscopic effect in a floral pattern. All stones over .07 carats have a FL to SI clarity, meaning that they are flawless or have small inclusions not visible to the naked eye and are colorless or near-colorless. They are also certified and laser-inscribed. A Cento diamond has nine-fold symmetry and takes 12 to 15 hours to cut.
The Chic & Shine collection boasts a modern look for every day and is realized with high-polish-flat-link earrings, pendants, cuff bracelets and cuff rings.
In the Haute Couture collection has strong and distinctive pieces with one-off jewels that are true originals and pay tribute to high fashion. The pieces consist of rose and white gold adorned with diamonds and other select gems.
There is also the Love Plus collection that uses the words, “I Love You” engraved in multiple languages on the creations as an ode to love. Another collection, the Quadrifoglio is crafted exclusively for the Platinum Guild and features a necklace, ring and earrings in platinum with diamonds.
These are just a small sampling of the numerous Roberto Coin collections that are available to satisfy almost any taste, style, and preference. Roberto Coin’s most recent collections include Tanaquilla, Black Jade, Pois Moi, and New Barocco.
Fans and wearers of Roberto Coin creations include Isabelle Adjani; Christy Turlington Burns (the face of Roberto Coin for three campaigns beginning in 2007), Hillary Clinton, Melissa Etheridge, Jodie Foster, Salma Hayak, Jennifer Hudson, Ashley Judd, Alicia Keyes, Diane Lane, Jennifer Lawrence, Demi Moore, Brooke Shields, and Oprah Winfrey.
Ms. Winfrey was the 2013 recipient of Roberto Coin-designed Sherry Lansing Award that recognizes a woman who is a pioneer and leader in the entertainment industry. The award is made of sterling silver and 18kt gold plate with diamond detail on the top that replicates the 100-faceted Cento diamond.
Every polished diamond in Roberto Coin jewelry is purchased from legitimate sources that subscribe to the Kimberly Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) and the System of Warranties. Each is guaranteed to be sourced from conflict-free areas.
More than 600 models for the most sought-after collections are produced each year for clients in Europe, Asia, North and South America and are available at more than 800 points of sale in 53 countries.
In August 2016, Roberto Coin opened a new location in Marbella. Set in the main shopping area in the El Corte Inglés Puerto Banus center, the Roberto Coin corner is located in an area where light hues mix with gold to enhance the jewels’ appearance.
Roberto Coin chose Marbella because he considers the city a crossroad that unites the modern creativity of Malaga and the classicism of Granada.
According to the Roberto Coin official website, “Each piece, by Roberto Coin, is the result of a thorough process, a journey among different cultures and multi-ethnic influences, through the world of nature, between echoes of the past and future projections. The capability to transfer the most varied experiences, dreams and perspectives into the jewels, characterizes the brand’s collections with an unmistakable mark of identity and uniqueness.”Sell Roberto Coin All Artists
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